Synthetic Corundum Ring
The design of this ring is an exercise in simplicity. A rectangular sheet of white gold is bent and joined at its ends. As seen along its edge, the shape becomes a slender tear-drop with two intersecting planes.
The design is also an exercise in fusion of form and function. As the planes merge, they taper to points at the very places where two prongs are required to secure the stone. There is a feeling of inherent logic in this kind of coincidence of form and function — a clarity and a feeling of synergy that simply pleases.
In this case, two prongs are the minimum. The underside of the synthetic corundum accurately seats into the metal below such that the prongs lock the stone in place.
Raw materials: a 14 k. white gold sheet (1.29 mm. thick), and an orange synthetic corundum.
Beginning to bend the sheet, taking care to keep the shape true in the bend.
Bent into a U, checking to see that the planes are in line with one another.
Soldered at the intersection of planes. Both inside surfaces in the area of contact had been bevelled to allow an overall tapered gradation of thickness.
The outside and inside surfaces are pre-polished, then the finger hole is cut through.
The “seat” for the underside of the stone is accurately carved into the solid area of intersection.
The synthetic corundum is secured by two prongs that were also carved from the solid area of intersection.
The finished piece. All excess metal is trimmed away, the shape of the prongs is tapered to true points, and the entire piece is given its final polish.